TWO Big Announcements

Leica M2, Death Valley

When this blog goes live on Monday morning the number one question I get asked about this blog will be answered. YES, I am selling prints through my shop here. I have hand selected a few of my favorite shots from the last three years and listed them for sale. I am so excited to be able to offer some of my art to my friends, family and followers! I will hand sign each print that goes out as well. The initial plan is to offer them in an 8x10 size glossy photo paper. If you would like them in a different size or finish, please send me an email and I will be happy to see what I can do.

I will also be listing some cameras and accessories for sale. Some of the cameras will be fully film tested, while other will be function tested but not with film. I have dozens of bags, straps, handheld meters and other accessories I just simply am running out of room for.

The second announcement for today is when this post goes live, we will have just returned from the trip of a lifetime! We have gone on a few National Park trips the last few years, but I have waited decades to visit where we are coming home from. Within the past three weeks we have been to Joshua Tree, Death Valley, Sequoia, Yosemite, Redwoods, Crater Lake, Olympic and Glacier National Parks. I will be writing about and posting pictures over the next few weeks as we recover from travel.

Nikon F2, 1955 Chevy

 I planned ahead and bought a couple cameras specifically for this trip. I have always pictured myself traveling through California with a Leica Rangefinder, just living my best Ansel Adams life, taking photos of unbelievable landscapes and then turning to meet interesting people. So, I bought myself a Leica M2 built in 1963 with a matching Summilux 50mm f1.4 lens. Did I need the extra light this lens gives me over one of the smaller lenses I could have chosen? No, absolutely not, but I am so happy with how sharp this lens shoots at f5.6 and higher. I suspect I will probably just sell off every other Rangefinder I have, because this one is simply fantastic.

Leica M2 in Sedona, AZ shot with iPhone 12

 I also took one of my favorite Nikon SLR bodies to make direct comparisons alongside the Leica so I can prove to myself, and anybody else that cares, it is just as good as any other camera ever built. This one is a Nikon F2 and one of my “newer” cameras built in early 1973, paired with a 50mm f1.4 lens as well but built in 1981. This was one of the first lenses I ever actively hunted down instead of just waiting for it to show up at a thrift shop or garage sale. It has been the one lens I pack every time I plan to use a Nikon body and have never been let down with the images it allows me to take.

Nikon F2 in King’s Canyon, shot with iPhone 12

Alongside the film photos I will be adding some digital shots as well to supplement. Even though this was a film trip first and foremost there were some shots I wanted to guarantee I captured, like seeing Half Dome for the first time in my life. I took my Nikon D500 and Nikon 28-200mm lens. This lens is not my first choice in general but it has a huge range and is as small as a lens can get for travel. There is a lot of flare and soft images with it, but I really like how versatile it is for it’s size. I will do my best to label each image with the camera and lens I used for it as they are posted.

Glacier National Park Valley, iPhone 12

I’m looking forward to seeing the pictures and hope you all are as well.

Nostalgia: Polaroid Instant FUNtography

One of the easiest ways to start shooting film in the 2020’s is also a classic nearly everybody knows about. Polaroid revolutionized photography in 1948 when Edwin Land introduced the Model 95. It was a type of instant film that still needed a little bit of knowledge for timing and when to peel apart the film once it was outside the camera. These were and still are beautiful cameras. They use 40-series film, which was unfortunately discontinued in 1992. Over the following years there were many different models introduced and then subsequentially discontinued by Polaroid. The brand name became synonymous with instant photography to the point of the only real competitor, Kodak, was forced out of business altogether after their claim was taken to the Supreme Court. I have never used a Kodak instant camera so I can’t tell you whether they were good or not, but I have used numerous Polaroid’s over the years.

I am only experienced with the standard style of Polaroid film. I’ve used them on and off since the early 1980’s. I remember my parents and grandparents being very protective of taking pictures because it was expensive, but being able to see my pictures right away was just too much of a draw for a pre-teen to care about the consequences of making them mad. I don’t remember any of my pictures being good, and I’m sure they were terrible. I do remember running around the front yard shaking the slightly warm square of white plastic while the picture slowly came to life though. Of note, I have learned shaking the photo is not necessary and could in fact slow down or ruin it altogether.

Choosing and using a Polaroid can be slightly confusing, so here is how it breaks down.

1. Vintage:

a. SX70 film

i.     Folding camera

ii.     Box type camera

b. 600 film

     i.     Folding camera

     ii.     Box type camera

2. Modern:

a. I-Type film

      i.     Box camera

If you have a family camera from the 90’s or earlier, it is one of 2 types: it uses either SX70 or 600 film. SX70 is roughly equal to ISO 160 film, which means it needs lots of light. It makes for nice, rich colors, or deep contrasty Black and White. 600 film is equivalent to iso 640 film and can be used in lower light, or will use faster shutter speeds making it less prone to making a blurry image. 600 makes the nostalgic vintage pastel look people like about these cameras.

 Most people are familiar with the boxy style that has a fold down top to cover the lens when not in use. It’s plasticky build is very sturdy and of the dozens I’ve used and held, all of them work just fine. Sometimes the rollers will need to be cleaned a little because it causes spots to form on the picture, but all it takes is a little isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab to clean it up like new. These can be found in both types of film, and the way to tell them apart is there is typically a sticker on the inside of the flap where the film is inserted. If that’s not the case with the one you have, a rule of thumb is the model number will either say “Land Camera” (sx70) or have some version of 6xx (600). All of these boxy style cameras can be had incredibly inexpensively, $20 and under is what I usually see, and have sold a handful for the same price with accessories like flash bars. If I were to choose one of these as my only instant camera, the Sun 660 seems to be the best as it has a built-in flash and autofocus. It also looks super cool with red lettering and a bright gold screen covering the autofocus module.

Both styles can also be had in a more aesthetically pleasing folding style. They use the same film and have a much higher tendency to break, but the leather skin and flat folding bodies can almost fit in a large pocket. The downside to these is they do run quite a bit more expensive in the hundreds of dollars depending on model. This may be due to the Single Lens Reflex (SLR) features they have rather than the folding features, but I’m not sure how helpful it is. The box style is basically a point and shoot, whereas the folders give a fair bit of control over focus and shutter speeds. There are also companies that will convert an SX70 to shooting 600 film. I have a converted version and it takes very nice photos. After the conversion it came back to me as basically a brand-new camera despite being 50 years old. Both SX70 and 600 film will fit in either camera, but when put in the wrong camera, will not expose properly. There are some companies that make a filter to put on 600 film for use in SX70 cameras if you are feeling crafty and want one camera to shoot both types of film.

 Polaroid was purchased by a group of photographers within the last few years to rejuvenate the brand. They started by reverse engineering the film process for vintage cameras, but then redesigned the cameras themselves to be more usable in the 21st century. Now they have introduced I-Type film for the new cameras. The only real difference is vintage film has a battery installed in every pack, I-Type film is battery free and the camera has the battery instead. It makes for a more environmentally friendly setup, and I-Type can be had in cool limited-edition styles like gold frames instead of the standard white frames. All three styles of film are readily available at retail stores like Target, Amazon or direct from Polaroid’s website. I-Type cameras can use 600 film with no modification, but the reverse is not true.

 To wrap it up, the main downside of shooting with any version of Polaroid is it’s pretty expensive. A single pack of 8 photos runs about $20, or $85 for 5 packs of 8. It also expires fast in comparison to standard roll film. Fujifilm has been making their Instax line of cameras and film and runs at a little bit more affordable priceline depending on the camera and film size you choose. I recently picked one of these up and shot just a pair of photos before it was commandeered by my youngest. Once I get it back, expect a full review as I compare it to the Polaroid industry standard.

Single Roll Review: Nikon F4s

I rarely use an autofocus film camera. I have and still do own more than a couple, I just prefer to use a manual focus camera and lens most of the time. My first was a Nikon N8008s which was a pleasant surprise for being an incredibly inexpensive purchase. At the point I was using the N8008s I decided I would someday like to use one of the professional models. I wanted to stick with Nikon since I already had the lenses. The Nikon F6 was my first choice but was far too expensive and has more features than I know what to do with. The F5 would be great but I honestly just don’t even see them for sale very often. Then one day I happened to see someone list an F4s for sale at a very reasonable price, and it included three lenses I was also very interested in getting some day. I ended up paying essentially for the lenses and got the camera at no extra charge. The F4s was the highest-level professional camera Nikon made from 1988 when it was introduced until the F5 was introduced in 1996. It was a giant leap forward from the F3, introducing autofocus to the professional line, better metering than any previous model and used readily available AA batteries. It also accepts almost every F mount lens Nikon (and other third parties) have created since 1959. I understand it will even work in P and S mode when using lenses without an aperture ring, but I did not own any at the time so did not test that feature. It is not able to use current VR features on any lens.

 Once it arrived, I was very impressed with every aspect about how well it is built, and this camera is just massive. The F4s has an added grip over the F4 that makes it take a total of 6 batteries. It is a very heavy camera, but not to the point of being cumbersome. Paired with the Nikkor 50mm f1.8 AF lens I chose it was well balanced and the lens practically disappeared when mounted. Once I started using it, the autofocus was so fast I barely had to think about what I was wanting to focus on. I could see using a full roll in a very short period.

The day I loaded up a roll and went out for a drive, I also was supposed to be picking up someone at a horse farm. Not a lot of people know, but I have a lifelong fear of horses. I know they probably won’t hurt me, but they’re just so big and strong and I don’t know how they behave. I was able to get close to a handsome boy named JJ and I’m pretty sure we’re best friends now.

Using this camera was a joy and the lens captured my photos so close to what I wanted I just loved it once the film was developed. I’m not sure what was happening in the atmosphere these days, but the sky looked like cotton candy and the camera caught every shot I wanted.

This single roll was all I ended up shooting with this camera. Even though I really liked it, the weight just made me too aware I was using it. It felt more like a tool than an extension of myself. Given the choice between using this and my significantly smaller and lighter F3 I chose the latter every time. I did end up trying a prosumer model, the F100 and it achieved everything the F4 does besides use a pre AI lens but in a more compact package. The F4 is probably the best built camera I have used to date, and honestly, I miss it a little. I still prefer my original F, but I would not be unhappy with an F4 again someday.

Retrospective Travel Blog: Chicago 2022

April 2022 was a turning point for me and the confidence I had in my photography skill. I had been watching lots of YouTube travel videos of my favorite creators and finally decided I would take ONLY a film camera on our planned trip to Chicago. Prior to this I was using a very competent Mirrorless Nikon 1 J2 I had gotten from a friend. It served me well in its bright orange super compact body, but it was time for me to just jump in and give up the security of knowing instantly what my photos looked like. This would also be a warmup for our next National Parks trip planned for later that summer, and to be honest it worked out better than expected.

When I was choosing what camera and lens combo to take, I ended up taking the only autofocus body I had at the time, a Nikon N8008s. It is a very early model, built sometime between 1992-1995. The autofocus is slow and noisy, but accurate once you get the hang of it. The light meter is also accurate, and I never worried about it getting the exposure just right in bright light, shadow or even at night while wandering through the theater district. It just works. I paired it with a zoom lens that is also not really known to be anything other than an “adequate” do it all tool. The NIKKOR 28-85mm 3.5-4.5 AF is a good match to the N8008s as they are both good at everything and excellent at nothing. I also wanted to take something I would not be terribly upset if either one ended up being broken or lost. I did end up having a heavy glass door slammed closed on the body but not even a scratch was sustained.

Walking with this hanging around my neck for 2 days was a little cumbersome, but it felt less heavy than most of the other autofocus cameras I’ve had. I also got more compliments on this one than I’ve ever gotten for any camera. Shout out to Zach at the Downtown LEGO store. I did make a mistake and loaded it with Black and White film before we went to the top of the Willis Tower, but it still made some nice photos. Much better than I took in the early 90’s when we went with my youth group, and it was still called the Sears Tower. The sunset wasn’t amazing, but it deserved better than BW film.

On the way back to the hotel all the streetlights were coming on and made the buildings feel like they were coming to life. We were staying in one of the hotels attached to a theater and those last few blocks of walking were brilliant.

 Chicago during daytime was slow to wake up. We made it to Cloud Gate (The Bean), and it was almost deserted. They were filming a scene for Chicago PD and said we could stay to the side as a part of the background extras. I was the only one interested, so we wandered back over to the sculpture, and I took what I would consider a selfie from the inside of it. I felt very much like I was working on a random college project and it was 1995 again.

The rest of the day was spent walking to and through the Museum of Natural History, Soldier Field and then some casual shopping while trying to avoid obvious tourist traps and dark alleyways. Of course, we did have to have Chicago Style Hot Dogs at Portillo’s…It was worth the 2-mile walk. Trying to squeeze a full Chicago weekend into just under 1000 words is tough, so I’m going to let the photos tell the rest of the story.

Overall, I was very pleased with how well the camera performed in so many different situations and have recommended it to multiple people looking for an inexpensive film camera. I got mine from KEH.com in excellent condition for around $60, and the lens came on a different body I bought previously. It can be had currently for around $50 and works with any manual focus Nikon body going back to the original F from 1959 and I still use it with my newest Digital D500. If you need a lens and I still have this one, I’d be happy to rehome it. These late 80’s to early 90’s autofocus film cameras are a steal of a deal for anyone that wants to learn to take a nice photo.

Expired Film Can Be Fun

For anyone that has even a passing interest in film photography, you have probably noticed there seems to be a plethora of options to choose from when buying a roll of film. There are options for different styles of shooting, color temperature, each brand offers different film speeds and sometimes the film has a characteristic that makes it especially good for a very particular subject. An example would be when someone chooses Cinestill 800t to take pictures of neon or a gas station at night because they like the glow the lights create in the photos. Some brands like Revolog have made entire lines with artificial artifact on the film stock like scratches, color shifts and even static electricity discharge. It's certainly a fun novelty when you are expecting it, though I have not used any of them yet. I do have a roll of “scratched” film I received in a mystery box a few years ago but have yet to figure out the situation I want to use it for. Regardless of what anyone chooses to shoot with, it tends to run on the expensive side, and is only getting more expensive. One way some photographers have chosen to combat this (me included) is to shoot expired films.

 Film is like most other consumable goods; it has a date the manufacturer considers to be a cut off for when the end customer can reasonably expect it to be the same as the day it was created. Over time the chemicals start to break down and become less predictably sensitive to light once exposed. This break down can be slowed by keeping it in cold storage and there are a few cases of companies finding bunch of deep freeze stored stock they can resell. Film Photography Project Retro Chrome is the only one of these I’ve used, and it did not turn out right. I am to blame for the weird turnout I assume. I’m not sure what I did wrong, but it was all dark blue when I had it developed.  The more common option of shooting expired film is to literally find a roll in a closet, cabinet, garage or stored in an old camera bag. This creates a much less predictable change in the photos, and there has been an entire community of folks that seek these rolls out just to see what results they can get. I’ve had the “pleasure” of shooting a handful of these and it’s either been very good or subjectively terrible. I did have one creepy jack-o-lantern picture turn out from the bad roll I kind of like though.

 The worst roll I’ve ever shot came from a garage sale Canon T50 that had been sitting in an unprotected attic for at least 20 years according to the lady I got it from. She gave me a good deal on it because I helped her bring down an old bench from the rafters. It was a roll of Kodak Gold 200 which typically has a brownish tone and reasonable graininess. It ended up looking like there was a haze over the photos with more grain and had darkness that a 1970’s horror movie would be thrilled to have. Only 7 images even showed up out of the 24 I shot, but they are all gloriously weird.

 A more typical find would be something from the 2010-2013 timeframe. This is when digital cameras were starting to surpass film quality, so people were putting what they had away and forgetting about it for the last decade or more. The rule of thumb I’ve been told is to overexpose by one stop for every 10 years it’s expired. If there’s no visible date, or it’s already in the camera I assume it’s from around this time and shoot 400 iso at 200, and 100 iso at 50. For some reason every expired roll I’ve had the last 2 years is either Kodak Gold 200 or Kodak Ektar 100, and both have given me some nice pastel images. I wouldn’t use them for my portfolio, but they look nice. It tends to make peoples skin look reddish pink I think, so I try to just get city and naturescapes.

 In My Favorite Things blog post I mentioned, I really like to shoot Kodak BW400CN. It was discontinued in 2014, so obviously it is well past expired at this point. This is one stock I just load and shoot at box speed, and it turns out nice. I don’t have anything extra to say about this, but if I ever find a brick of it, I certainly hope it’s priced well because I will absolutely buy it.

One last thought about shooting expired film is entirely theoretical. I don’t shoot slide film because my local film shop doesn’t have the chemicals to develop it. Everyone I have talked with says you should not try to shoot at anything but box speed and hope for the best. If you want a roll to try out for yourself, I have some in my freezer I am pretty sure is dated 2009. I have no idea how I ended up with this stuff, but I am never going to say no when someone offers it to me.

Thank you again for spending time with me today. Please go out show someone you love them.

My Favorite Things

Skater’s Advocate (Leica M2 on Kodak BW400CN

When I sat down to write this blog, I had to consider: what is a favorite accessory and why? There are a lot of cameras, lenses and random things I like about film photography, but only a few are what I would say are a favorite for me. Even when there is something I really like, there is usually a preference for one use and a second for a slightly different purpose. Some might change, while others are rock solid I won’t even bother trying to find better.

First and foremost, when I started shooting film again there was only one accessory I specifically sought out. When I was a kid, we had a “hippy” neck strap on my mom’s Minolta x700, and it was the epitome of style for me. I have collected a nice little assortment of these in various patterns and colors, but the one I like best is this blue/white/red one I’ve seen in many used camera packages over the last few years. It’s not super comfortable, and the clips aren’t very stable to use for heavier cameras, but they look so cool. There are several companies that make similar types, and in some cases identical copies, but it doesn’t quite feel the same. Most camera shops I’ve stopped in have some version if you can’t find a vintage copy and don’t mind a newer style of connection. I’ve yet to see one with the old style of metal clips, all the new ones have d-style material connections.

For times I need a more sturdy or more comfortable strap I have only found one affordable one I really like. Op/Tech makes a very nice (but kind of boring) series of straps. I have a few of the older base models and one of the new updated models. The red one pictured here was a replacement I received when I asked if they could repair a clip I broke on a 20+ year old strap. They really seem to stand behind their product and their customer service was very responsive. The only real problem I’ve had with these is the neoprene makes my neck a little sweaty when hiking. Not enough to be distracting but I air it out a little before putting it away.

For carry bags I have tried dozens of different types. I seem to accumulate these very fast. Whenever I buy a new camera, it comes with at least one bag. Thrift shops and garage sales also seem to sell these in extraordinary numbers. While I would love to have one of the new Nomatic Peter McKinnon bags, I don’t love the price tag. I have tinkered with one at a shop, but they just don’t seem any better for my casual use than the two I am going to talk about here. My favorites are just well constructed basic bags I picked up and have used whenever I need something more than just a body and lens. The first is a Tamrac 3350. I believe it’s also called the Aero 50. It’s just big enough to carry a camera with lens, in addition to another small or medium lens. I will generally use it when I do a photo walk around town or need to carry a little extra gear, light meter or don’t want to carry my keys and wallet in a pocket. I picked this up at a consignment store for $5, and it is built much better than a $5 bag. I see it available on websites still from time to time at retail price (around $80), but there are hundreds of similar bags available out there for around the $5-10 range and I would wait to find that before paying retail on a 2011 model.

 When I need a more substantial kit, like going on a road trip, I have yet another Tamrac bag: the Expedition 5. This was included when I bought a digital camera and has enough space for a large camera, telephoto lens, flash, 2-3 prime lenses and still have plenty of extra space. I have yet to fill this bag even when prepping for a two week road trip to Yellowstone National Park. This is not intended to be used as a professional bag and I would not recommend it for that either. Its construction is soft sided and only offers canvas padding as protection. It has held up well though for being a 15-year-old canvas bag.

 If you stick around long enough to read my blog over time, you will notice I have an affinity for manual focus cameras without a built-in light meter. This means I need to use a handheld light meter. When I looked at what other photographers were using on the internet, I noticed a lot of them use and recommend Sekonic meters. They look great and offer way more features than I will ever need. I am the kind of person that just wants basic information to make my photo look the way I see it at the time I take it. I’ve tried a couple ranging from ancient 1950’s models up to a 1980 Minolta Flash Meter III. They all work well enough in good light, but as my wife has told me on more than one occasion, “I don’t want to learn the information, I just want to be given the answer.” The easiest and most accurate meter I’ve gotten my hands on is my Quantum Calcu-Light XP. It has worked perfectly in bright light, shadows and even the middle of the night with only a backlit church sign as the only source of light. All I need to do is press a single button, turn the dial to the number it indicates and read the settings for aperture and shutter speed I want to use. It was top of the line in 1980 and sold for $160 ($590 in 2023) but can be had now ranging in price from $5-50. I spent more on the 4 LR44 batteries than I did on the meter itself. The only electronic indicator is a 2-digit LED readout which is quite a departure from its contemporaries and especially when compared to current models. I have no intention of ever even looking for a new meter as long as this one is working.

 Finally, I had to consider my favorite film. I prefer to shoot in black and white. The only stock I ever get genuinely excited to shoot isn’t even available anymore. Kodak discontinued BW400CN in 2014. Occasionally, I get a roll and I always save it for something special. It has fine grain and as long as I overexpose it just a tiny bit it has turned out perfectly every time. The photos I posted below were shot on a camera I have waited decades to own or even shoot, with a blog post about it coming very soon. There are some other similar film rolls available theoretically, but they don’t feel the same. On a day-to-day basis I will shoot Ilford HP5 every time though. It’s cheap, has decent grain and best of all it available every time I need to buy new film.

Thank you for reading and I genuinely appreciate you spending even a little time with me today.

Shoe-to shoot (Leica M2, Kodak BW400CN)

Skater’s Advocate Backroom (Leica M2, Kodak BW400CN)

Nikon F: The Start

When I sat down to type my first real post for this blog, I had huge ambitions and ended up writing 1,000 words that made sense to me. When I asked my bride to proofread it for me, I could see the look on her face change with every sentence and I knew for certain it was far too much “stuff” all at once. I managed to cram almost 100 years of history into 5 paragraphs, and honestly when I went back and read it myself it was the ramblings of someone way too excited about what they were writing. I suspect my main audience is more interested in what I can create and what I think about when I’m doing it. So, I decided I would start where I truly began to understand what I was doing and not just hoping to get lucky with a decent shot occasionally.

When I started looking around at what type of film camera was “best” and read numerous articles of what the most famous and desirable version were, the Nikon F was mentioned invariably as the most influential. In comparison to later models, it’s just a huge clunky block of metal. It has sharp edges, is difficult to load film into and doesn’t really offer anything in the line of technology that can’t be had cheaper elsewhere. The thing is does offer is absolute reliability, ability to use 50+ years of terrific lenses and the feeling you are absolutely using a camera people will notice.

The Nikon F was first introduced in 1959 and took over a big part of the photography market. I once read it was so popular Leica almost went out of business because of this singular release. It was their first professional single lens reflex (SLR). An SLR simplifies the process to make a well composed, focused photo. Looking through the viewfinder is a direct reflection of the image coming through the front glass of the lens. With the F, Nikon allowed each photographer the option of choosing the style of viewfinder they prefer. In the 24 years they actively produced it, there were three main types created: 1. Eyelevel finder, 2. Waist level finder, 3. Metered eyelevel finder. Currently the most desirable version is the basic unmetered eye level finder. In my opinion it is the best looking of all the styles, and I’ve yet to find the version with the light meter that works. The waist level finder is quite cool though as it lets you hold the camera much lower while focusing and allows you to create a more “heroic” point of view when taking portraits or when you just want a lower focus and don’t feel like laying on the ground. It’s super easy to change between finders as it only requires a single button push and 10-15 seconds. The design of this body allows for 100% reliability despite the modularity. It was used regularly in active combat areas during the Vietnam War by photojournalists, and still today by hobbyists. I’ve had 4 different copies of it and every single one has worked perfectly despite being over 50 years old with no maintenance and being stored in basements and garages for the past 20 years. I was fortunate enough to get one from the original owner and still have all the original packaging and paperwork. I have become a sucker for these kinds of finds and have no plan to ever get rid of it.

For me the most important of any camera system are the lenses available for it. The Nikon F can use any lens that has been made by Nikon since 1959 up through currently available models. If it has an aperture ring, it can be used. When I first started shooting Nikon bodies, I desperately wanted a 50mm f1.4 lens. It’s a nice big chunk of glass and takes such amazing pictures. It’s sharp and fast. I have both a very early version from around 1972 as well as a newer improved version from 1981. Zoom lenses from the same time frame are generally terrible. I was given a copy of the 43-86mm which is considered the worst zoom lens ever made. I won’t ever use it, but it’s kind of a neat thing to own for the novelty. I’m pretty sure the original owner felt the same way, because it looks brand new despite being almost 60 years old. It is known to take pictures that are not sharp with light flares and just generally looks terrible. It’s bad enough it set back the reputation of zoom lenses in general for years. Fortunately, lens technology has improved drastically and now are generally just as good as fixed prime lenses like the 50mm I mentioned earlier. I have an 80-200mm f2.8 autofocus lens I’ve really liked using on all my Nikon cameras and have taken some of my favorite photos of my family with it…usually despite their objections. All three of them are beautiful people but have grown tired of being the first subject I look to whenever I put a new roll of film in anything.

Nikon has unfortunately removed the aperture rings from current lens models, so they are not able to be used with these old cameras

When it comes to using a distinctive piece of equipment, the Nikon F always gets attention when I take it out. In fact, I would say commands attention would be an accurate description. Not only is it large and blocky, but the sound the shutter makes can best be described as a THWUNK. It is loud enough I’ve had people turn around to see what was happening on a somewhat busy street. Loading film isn’t an easy one-handed process like it is on newer cameras. In order to put in a new roll, you need to remove the back of it entirely and then carefully replace it afterward. If you don’t like or want attention this is not the camera for you. It’s a very fun time though if you want to have random people ask you questions like “do they even still sell film?” and “do you develop your own film?”.

 Overall, if you want a camera that only has the absolute basics and feel comfortable having to do every single aspect of photography manually you need to jump online and find someone with one of these for sale right now.